Mother Sauces and Leading Sauces.

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This week we learned about Classic mother sauces and knife skills. Here is my journal entry for the week.

THE COMPONENTS OF A SAUCE:

The major sauces are basically made of three components:

1. A liquid, the body of the sauce; stocks, milk, and fats

2. A thickening agent, roux, starch, and liaison: cream, egg yolks, vegetable purees and fat.

3. The flavoring and seasoning, a subtle balance of many ingredients, none dominating.

THE PURPOSE OF A SAUCE:

1. Adds moisture and texture

2. Adds flavor and richness

3. Changes the appearance and contrasts

4. Creates interest and stimulates the appetite

QUALITY STANDARDS OF A SAUCE:

1. Thickness: Consistency is given by partially thickening with roux or starch or a reduction of the sauce. NAPPE (nap); the consistency of a liquid that will coat the back of a spoon.

2. Texture: Consistency is given by partially thickening with roux or starch

3. Color: The proper color is the result of its components, stock, roux and various seasonings and flavorings.

4. Shine: This is the degree to which the sauce reflects light.

5. Taste: The cardinal rule of flavoring and seasoning sauces is that it should be well balanced, without a single flavor dominating.

THICKENING AGENTS:

Thickeners are used to give liquids a certain amount of viscosity. They give a sauce, stew or soup additional body.

Kinds of Thickening agents:

1. Slurry is most often used with arrowroot or cornstarch. They are liquefied in a cold substance such as water, milk or stock (1 to 2 ratio of thickener to liquid) whisk in and bring to boil until it reaches desired thickness.

2. Beurre Manie or cold butter roux (kneaded butter) equal parts butter and flour by weight uncooked kneaded together.

3. Roux – Equal parts of flour and butter (or fat) by weight cooked to various shades of color. Cooked roux should be moist but not fatty, “Like sand at low tide”. To prepare melt the fat add the flour and stir constantly until the desired color is achieved.

FINISHING TECHNIQUES:

Reduction – as sauces cook moisture is released in the form of steam. As steam escapes, the remaining ingredients concentrate, thickening the sauce and strengthening the flavors. This process is commonly used to thicken sauces because no starch or other flavor-altering ingredients are needed. Allowing them to reduce until the desired consistency is reached often finishes sauces.

Straining – Smoothness is important to the success of most sauces. They can be strained through either a china cap lined with cheesecloth or a fine mesh chinois. Often vegetables, herbs, spices and other seasonings are added to a sauce for flavor. Straining removes these ingredients as well as any lumps of roux or thickener remaining in the sauce after the desired flavor and consistency have been reached.

Monter Au Beurre – The process of swirling or whisking whole butter into a sauce to give it shine, flavor and richness.

There are five classic MOTHER SAUCES or also known as LEADING SAUCES: They are the foundation for the entire repertoire of hot sauces.

1. Bechamel (bay-shah-mell) - is the easiest mother sauce to prepare. Thickening scalded milk with a white roux and adding seasonings make it. Many small sauces are made from Bechamel like; cream, cheese, mornay, nantua, and soubise.

2. Veloute (veh-loo-tay) - These sauces are made by thickening a white stock with roux.

3. Espagnole (ess-spah-nyol) / Brown sauce – It is made from brown stock to which brown roux, mirepoix and tomato puree have been added. This sauce is used to produce Demi-glace which is a half brown sauce and half brown stock, reduced by half. Many small sauces are made from demi-glace.

4. Tomato - The classic tomato sauce is made from tomatoes, vegetables, seasonings and white stock and thickened with a blond or brown roux. In today’s kitchen tomato sauces are NOT thickened with roux. Rather they are created from tomatoes, herbs, spices, vegetables and other flavoring ingredients simmered together and pureed.

5. Hollandaise (ohll-uhn-daze) – An emulsified sauce made of butter, egg yokes and flavorings (especially lemon juice).

What equipment we used:

The basic equipment used this week was cutting board, Chef knife, vegetable peeler, paring knife, whisk and spoon.

Also used a stockpot, sauté pan, ladle, skimmer, china cap, chinois, cheesecloth and food mill.

Chef Instructor Critique:

1. Bechamel – a little heavy on the nutmeg. Needs to be smooth and silky with neutral flavor, should taste like milk.

2.Veloute – taste only as good as the stock it was made from. Important to have a good stock to produce a good veloute.

3. Espagnole – Needs to have a darker color. Caramelized the mirepoix more. Keep a neutral taste.

Side Notes:

Sweat mirepoix – no color

Sauté mirepoix – brown color (caramelized)

Tomato Concassee – peeled, seeded and diced tomato.

Core – remove stems

Score – cross cut on bottom

Blanch – 10 seconds in boiling water

Shock – in an ice bath

Peel

Seed

Chop

Knife skills:

Minced garlic with small amount of salt. Creates a paste.

Chiffonade basil – finely slice or shred

This Weeks Recipes: SAUCES:

1. Bechamel

Yields: 1/2 gal

Ingredients:

• 1 onion piquet (bay leaf tacked with a clove to 1/4 of a peeled onion)
• 1/2 gal milk
• 2 oz. flour
• 2 fl oz clarified butter
• white pepper to taste
• nutmeg, pinch

Methods:

Add the onion piquet to the milk in a heavy saucepan, simmer 20 minutes.

In a separate pot, make the white roux with the flour and butter.

Remove the onion piquet from the milk. Gradually add the hot milk to the roux while stirring constantly with a whisk to prevent lumps. Bring to a boil.

Reduce the sauce to a simmer, add the seasonings and continue cooking for 30 minutes.

Strain the sauce through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.

Small Bechamel Sauces The quantities given are for 1 qt of béchamel. The final step for each recipe is to season to taste with salt and pepper.

• Cream Sauce – Add to béchamel 8–12 fl oz scalded cream and a few drops of lemon juice.
• Cheese – Add to béchamel 8 oz grated Cheddar or American cheese, a dash of Worcestershire, 1 tblsp dry mustard, 1 oz grated Parmesan. Thin as desired with scalded cream. Remove the sauce from the heat and swirl in 2 oz whole butter.
• Mornay – Add to béchamel 4 oz grated Gruy
• Nantua – Add to béchamel 4 fl oz heavy cream, 6 oz crayfish butter. Add paprika to achieve the desired color. Garnish the finished sauce with diced crayfish meat.
• Soubise (Modern) – Sweat 1 lb diced onions in 1 oz whole butter without browning. Add béchamel and simmer until the onions are fully cooked. Strain through a fine chinois.

2. Veloute Sauce

Yields: 2 qt

Ingredients:

• 2 1/2 qt chicken stock
• 2 oz prepared flour
• 2 fl oz clarified butter

Sachet:

• 1-bay leaf
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/4 tsp peppercorns, crushed
• 4-parsley stems
• 1/4 tsp white pepper

Methods:

Heat butter in heavy saucepan. Add the flour and cook to make the blond roux.

Heat stock in a separate saucepan.
 Gradually add the hot stock to the roux, stirring constantly with whisk to prevent lumps. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for minimum of 30 minutes.

Adjust seasonings to taste with salt and white pepper.

Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.

Note: Melted butter may be ladled carefully over the surface of the sauce to prevent a skin from forming.

3. Espagnole (Brown Sauce)

Yields: 1/2 gal

Ingredients:

• 1 lb. mirepoix, medium dice
• 4 fl oz clarified butter
• 4 oz flour
• 2 1/2 qt brown stock
• 4 oz tomato puree

Sachet:

• 1-bay leaf
• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 1/4 tsp peppercorns, crushed
• 4 parsley stems
• salt and pepper to taste

Methods:

Sauté the mirepoix in butter until well caramelized. Add the flour and cook to make a brown roux.

Add the stock and tomato puree. Stir to break up any lumps of roux. Bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer. Add the sachet.

Simmer for approximately 1 1/2 hours, allowing the sauce to reduce. Skim the surface as needed to remove impurities.

Strain the sauce through a china cap lined with cheesecloth. Adjust seasonings.

4. Classic Tomato Sauce

Yields: 1/2 gal

Ingredients:

• 2 oz salt pork, small dice
• 1 lb. mirepoix
• 1 1/2 qt tomatoes (fresh or canned)
• 1 qt tomato puree

Sachet:

• 1/2 tsp dried thyme
• 2-bay leaves
• 3-garlic cloves
• 5-parsley stems
• 1/2 tsp peppercorns, crushed

3/4 oz salt

1/2 oz granulated sugar

1 1/2 qt white stock

1 lb. pork bones

Methods:

Render the salt pork over medium heat.

Add the mirepoix and sauté, but do not brown.

Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, sachet, salt and sugar. Add the stock and bones.

Simmer slowly for 1 to 2 hours or until the desired consistency has been reached.

Remove the bones and sachet and pass the sauce through a food mill.

Fresh Tomato Sauce

Yields: 1 qt

Ingredients:

• 2 oz clarified butter
• 8 oz onions, diced
• 4 oz celery, small dice
• 2 oz carrots, small dice
• 2-garlic cloves, minced
• 48 oz prepared tomato concassee (peeled, seeded, diced)
• 4 oz prepared tomato paste
• 1 tsp salt
• 1/8 tsp white pepper
• 1 tbsp basil, chiffonade
• 1 tbsp parsley, chopped

Methods:

Sweat onions, celery, carrots, and garlic in the butter until the onions are translucent.

Add tomato concassee and simmer for approximately 30 minutes until flavor has developed and correct consistency is reached.

Adjust seasoning to taste with salt and white pepper, stir in the basil and parsley.

5. Hollandaise

Yields: 24 fl oz

Ingredients:

• 1/2 tsp white peppercorns, crushed
• 3 fl oz white wine vinegar
• 2 fl oz water
• 8-egg yolks, pasteurized
• 1 1/2 fl oz lemon juice
• 1 pint clarified butter, warm
• salt and white pepper to taste
• cayenne pepper to taste

Methods:

Combine the peppercorns, vinegar and water in a small saucepan and reduce by one-half.

Place the egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl. Strain the vinegar-and-pepper reduction through a chinois into the yolks.

Place the bowl over a double boiler, whipping the mixture continuously with a wire whip. As the yolks cook, the mixture will thicken. When the mixture is thick enough to leave a trail across the surface when the whip is drawn away, remove the bowl from the double boiler. Do not overcook the egg yolks.

Whip in 1 fluid ounce lemon juice to stop the yolks from cooking.

Begin to add the warm clarified butter to the egg yolk mixture a few drops at a time, while constantly whipping the mixture to form an emulsion. Once the emulsion is started, the butter may be added more quickly. Continue until all the butter is incorporated.

Whip in the remaining lemon juice. Adjust the seasonings. Strain the sauce through cheesecloth.

*Beurre Blanc

Yields: 1 qt

Ingredients:

• 1 fl oz white wine
• 4 fl oz white wine vinegar
• 1 1/2 tsp salt
• 1/2 tsp white pepper
• 1 oz shallot, minced
• 2 lb. whole butter, chilled

Methods:

Combine the white wine, white wine vinegar, salt, white pepper and shallot in a small saucepan. Reduce the mixture until approximately 2 tablespoons of liquid remain. If more than 2 tablespoons of liquid are allowed to remain, the resulting sauce will be too thin.

For a thicker sauce, reduce the mixture au sec.

Cut the butter into pieces approximately 1 ounce in weight. Over low heat, whisk in the butter a few pieces at a time, using the chilled butter to keep the sauce between 100*F-120*F.

Once all the butter has been incorporated, remove the saucepan from the heat.

Strain through a chinois.

Variations:

Beurre Rouge – Substitute a dry red wine for the white wine and red wine vinegar for the white wine vinegar.

Lemon-Dill – Heat 2 tablespoons lemon juice and whisk it into the beurre blanc. Stir in 4 tablespoons chopped fresh dill.

Pink Peppercorn – Add 2 tablespoons coarsely crushed pink peppercorns to the shallot-wine reduction when making beurre rouge. Garnish the finished sauce with whole pink peppercorns.

*Demi-Glace

Yields: 1 qt

Ingredients:

• 1 qt Brown stock
• 1 qt Brown sauce

Methods:

Combine the stock and sauce in a saucepan over medium heat. Simmer until the mixture is reduced by half.

Strain and cool.

Small Brown Sauces The quantities given are for 1 quart demi-glace or jus lié. The final step for each recipe is to season to taste with salt and pepper.

1. Bordelaise – Combine 16 fluid ounces dry red wine, 2 ounces chopped shallots, 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme and 1 pinch black pepper in a saucepan. Reduce by three-fourths, then add demi-glace and simmer for 15 minutes. Strain through a fine chinois. Finish with 2 ounces whole butter and garnish with sliced, poached beef marrow.
2. Chasseur (Hunter’s Sauce) – Sauté 4 ounces sliced mushrooms and 1/2 ounce diced shallots in whole butter. Add 8 fluid ounces white wine and reduce by three-fourths. Then add demi-glace and 6 ounces diced tomatoes; simmer for 5 minutes. Do not strain. Garnish with chopped parsley.
3. Châteaubriand – Combine 16 fluid ounces dry white wine and 2 ounces diced shallots. Reduce the mixture by two-thirds. Add demi-glace and reduce by half. Season to taste with lemon juice and cayenne pepper. Do not strain. Swirl in 4 ounces whole butter to finish and garnish with chopped fresh tarragon.
4. Chevreuil - Prepare a poivrade sauce but add 6 ounces bacon or game trimmings to the mirepoix. Finish with 4 fluid ounces red wine and a dash of cayenne pepper.
5. Madeira or Port - Bring demi-glace to a boil and reduce slightly. Then add 4 fluid ounces Madeira wine or ruby port.
6. Marchand De Vin – Reduce 8 fluid ounces dry red wine and 2 ounces diced shallots by two-thirds. Then add demi-glace, simmer and strain.
7. Mushroom – Blanch 8 ounces mushroom caps in 8 fluid ounces boiling water seasoned with salt and lemon juice. Drain the mushrooms, saving the liquid. Reduce this liquid to 2 tablespoons and add it to the demi-glace. Just before service stir in 2 ounces whole butter and the mushroom caps.
8. Périgueux – Add finely diced truffles to Madeira sauce. Périgourdine sauce is the same, except that the truffles are cut into relatively thick slices.
9. Piquant – Combine 1 ounce shallots, 4 fluid ounces white wine and 4 fluid ounces white wine vinegar. Reduce the mixture by two-thirds. Then add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Add 2 ounces diced cornichons, 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, 1 tablespoon fresh parsley and 1 tablespoon fresh chervil. Do not strain.
10. Poivrade – Sweat 12 ounces mirepoix in 2 tablespoons oil. Add 1 bay leaf, 1 sprig thyme and 4 parsley stems. Then add 16 fluid ounces vinegar and 4 fluid ounces white wine. Reduce by half, add demi-glace and simmer for 40 minutes. Then add 20 crushed peppercorns and simmer for 5 more minutes. Strain through a fine chinois and finish with up to 2 ounces whole butter.
11. Robert – Sauté 8 ounces chopped onion in 1 ounce whole butter. Add 8 fluid ounces dry white wine and reduce by two-thirds. Add demi-glace and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and then add 2 teaspoons prepared Dijon mustard and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar. If the finished Robert sauce is garnished with sliced sour pickles, preferably cornichons, it is known as Charcutèire.

*Mayonnaise

Yield: 2 Cups

Ingredients:

• 2 pasteurized egg yolks
• 1/2 tsp mustard, dry or wet
• 1/4 oz lemon juice
• 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
• 1 tbsp water
• Salt and white pepper, to taste

Method:

Combine the egg yolks, dry or wet mustard and lemon juice in a bowl. Mix them with a balloon whip.

Very slowly add the oil in drips, constantly beating with the whip, until an emulsion has occurred, the oil is incorporated and the mayonnaise is thick.

Adjust the flavor and thickness with water.

Adjust the seasoning with salt, white pepper and lemon juice.

So I hope you have enjoyed this post. Leave me a comment and let me know what you think. Till next week have a great day.

Juan